Aconcagua 6,965m Winter Ascent - The Normal Route

A winter ascent on Aconcagua is significantly more problematic than the standard summer ascent on either the false polaco or normal routes, yet winter on the eastern flank of the Andean Range can be surprisingly mild. The 2002 winter season was characterized with extended periods of crisp but dry skies, and multiple days with little or no wind. These periods tended to last 3-7 days, with one cloudless and snowless period going over 13 days. Given the peaks location to the rain-shadow side of the range, and the fact that any precipitation has to be forced by prevailing systems of sufficient strength to reach the far side of the range, the geo-climatic conditions provide windows of opportunity for an attempt in a lull between frontal systems.

After nearly topping out in 2003 and 2004, in 2005 we managed to place 2 members on the summit and had all 5 members climb above the 20,000ft mark. In a year of deep snow and cold temperatures their acheivement was significant and we congratulate them all. With three years of experience on this winter climb we have gained considerable knowledge and are looking forward to putting together the best trip yet in 2006!

Aconcagua 6,965m Polish Glacier Route

As its name suggests, the route was forded by a Polish team in the summer of 1934. It was the second successful route to the top since some 40 years prior, when the Swiss Guide Mat Zurbriggen went up the north west shoulder. Today, it remains arguably the most aesthetic line up the hill. The route differs from the Vacas and Normal lines primarily in its consistency of angle, and its somewhat more exposed setting. Subsequently, climbers on this variation will need a significant degree of aerobic capacity, and a fundamental grasp of the techniques used in traversing ice and snow slopes up to 50°. It is, without a doubt, more akin to elemental alpine mountaineering than either of the more commonly ascended routes on Aconcagua, and a successful summit via any of the Polish proper routes is a significant addition to a climbers resume.

Aconcagua 6,965m False Polish Route

At 6,965m (22,840ft) Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Southern Hemisphere and indeed the world, outside of the greater ranges. Contrary to popular belief the crest of the massif does not form part of the Andean range but lies due east of the main chain in an unusual geographic demarcation. For this reason her summit soars well above all the peaks surrounding her, making the view in any direction mesmerizing and overtly panoramic. Aconcagua's proximity to Mendoza, and nearby roads, precludes the need for any extended or gruelling approach march commonly associated with Himalayan 7000ers. Aconcagua's non-technical lines of ascent, free of the objective dangers of avalanche and rock fall are ideal for first time high altitude aspirants, and for those seeking a training ground and springboard for loftier Himalayan objectives.

Ecuador Volcanoes, 6,310m

Ecuador is one of the world's most enchanting and varied countries. Its rich biodiversity is characterised by a preponderance of species. An ornithologist's delight, it has more bird species crammed into an area the size of France, than in the entire continental USA. It is also home to extraordinary fauna, with more than 3000 species of orchid alone. One of the world's hotspots of volcanic activity (Sangay, Tungurahua and Guagua Pinchincha are all active at time of writing), the area provides for a fascinating and diverse environment to climb in, with ascents sometimes leaving forested steppes and onto snow ridges and then glaciated valleys. Climbing four peaks in Ecuador is more akin to undertaking four separate expedition ascents, with each peak posing a different set of objectives to be overcome, and each being quite geologically unique. .
Note: our 23-day expedition will attempt the summits of Illinizas Norte, Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Our 9-day program which includes Illinizas Norte and Cotopaxi can be extended to include Cayambe and/or Chimborazo.

Broad Peak 8,047m

Named for its triple summitted crest and substantial breadth, Broad Peak lies in a spectacular and remote region of the Pakistani Karakoram directly opposite K2. Broad Peak is proving a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is favourable. Our extensive previous experience in this region, successful ascents of this and other nearby 8,000m peaks, and long established contacts with the best possible expedition staff and climbing porters provides a guarantee of quality ground based logistics and expert leadership at a very affordable price. We have run succesful expeditionsin 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006 with members summiting in 2003, 2004 and 2006 and we look forward to our fifth year on the hill.

K2 (8611m) & Broad Peak (8047m) Double

In addition to our trip to Broad Peak we have added the option to climb K2 with a superb support structure. many of our members will choose to use Broad Peak to acclimatize and shorten the time needed on the slopes of K2. We will be climbing the classic Abrizzu Ridge and employing fixed lines and supprt of high altitude porters to install the camps where possible. This is a double for experienced climbers and our team is comprised of climbers who have already been on major international expeditions and includes summiteers of Everest, Denali, Cho Oyu and the like. Our 2006 Double header was very successful with multiple summits on Broad Peak and high points of over 8000m reached on K2.

read the 2006 dispatches

Gasherbrum II 8,032m

At the head of the Baltoro Glacier, at the end of one of the world's most famed mountain walks, lies the heaviest and most remote concentration of high peaks on the planet. Gasherbrum II is part of the greater Gasherbrum group of 5 peaks, 2 of which soar over 8000m, and is the world's 13th highest peak. She is roundly held as one of the most straightforward and accessible of the fourteen, and climbers on her normal route, if sufficiently resourced and prepared, enjoy good summit rates in clement weather. She is certainly the safest and most attainable of the high peaks, and is a great choice for a first time 8000m attempt. Our 2007 expedition will be modelled on our 4th expedition on of Broad Peak last season, and is open to all climbers looking to join a cost effective but well organized and resourced team.

Additionally we will be offering an extension to Gashebrum 1 for qualified members seeking a great value. Please email us at info@fieldtouring.com for more details of this extension.

read the 2007 dispatches

Spantik 7,027m

Spantik is currently deemed as one of, if not the, safest and most straightforward 7,000m ascents in the Himalaya. It has gained considerable attention from climbers in recent years due to its accessibility and relative ease of ascent. It provides for a full wilderness climbing experience in true expedition style, in a corner of the Karakoram Himalaya still untouched by modern tourism and western influences. Our line follows the south East ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906, the peak was first climbed in 1955 by Karl Kramers' German Expedition. This route is a long snow and ice ridge climb of moderate angles. There are two sections which normally require the use of fixed ropes, these sections are readied by our HAP's (high altitude porters) if no previous team has yet fixed them.

Read the 2007 dispatches

Elbrus 5833m/18,481 ft

Join FTA guide Sean James for a great Seven Summits starter!
Standing at a height of 5633m / 18,481 ft, Elbrus is a giant dormant volcano in a chain of mountains known as The Caucasus. The Caucasus range forms a chain of snowy, high, alpine mountains separating Georgia from Russia to the north. They run for 1000km with many peaks over 4000m. Elbrus is the highest peak in this range and indeed Europe and is one of the Seven Continental Summits.

Satopanth (India)

Mt. Satopanth, the second highest summit in the Gangotri Group is
located in the remote India Garhwal Himalaya Range in a disjoined
side-group separating the Gangotri and Chaturangi Glaciers. This is an
incredibly beautiful and remote area with unlimited and un tapped
mountaineering and big wall potential. Views of Thalay Sagar, Shivling
and the terrifying granite pillars of Bhagirathi III, described as "El
Cap with a Droites North Face on top at 6000M", are enough to humble
even the most seasoned climber. Join us on an amazing adventure to this
seldom visited region of the Indian Himalayas.

Ama Dablam 6,828m

Towering over the access route to the upper Khumbu and presiding grandly over the Sherpa outpost of Thyangboche, Ama Dablam is a coveted Nepalese peak - her SW ridge is roundly held as one of the finest and most aesthetic mixed lines anywhere on the planet. The route weaves its way up through an ever changing environment of rock towers, ice humps, snow and ice platforms, and terminates upon a ramp of steepish ice and snow before rounding off to a spectacular summit mound where the views of Everest and a multitude of other peaks abound. It is the outlandish exposure, a mind boggling variation of scenery and topography, and the little hidden discoveries along the way up and across the ridge, that make climbing this route such a tantalising experience.

We are offering a second start date this year as well as we will have a support trek available also which will run from Oct 15 to Nov 4 and will include coming first to Ama Dablam base camp and then on to Everest base camp and Kalapatar.and exiting by way of Cho La pass. Extentions to climb Lobuche E or Island Peak will be available. Cost will be 1750usd. Please let us know if you are interested in the trek and we can send you more details.

In 2005 we had a fantastic expedition which placed 11 of 15 members on the summit, in 2006 we had another 8 of 10 reach the top, in 2007 13 of 17 reach the summit and we look for another banner year in 2008. Join our experienced Ama Dablam FTA guides for a once in a lifetime climb!
Read the 2005 dispatches | Read the 2006 dispatches | Read the 2007 dispatches

Cho Oyu 8201m

At 8201m Cho Oyu is the world's 6th highest peak and considered one of the best introductions to climbing an 8000m peak. With good weather and a strong support team it has one of the highest summit success ratios of any 8000m peak. With moderate objective hazards and low technical demands it is a great peak to focus on high altitude climbing.

Please join FTA guide Stu Remensnyder in 2008 for a great trip to a himalayan giant!

Read the 2007 dispatches

Tharpu Chuli 5663m

Also known as "Tent Peak", Tharpu Chuli is a gem in the heart of the Annapurna range with stunning views of Annapurna's south-west face and of famed Machapucharre. The trek alone is provides a lifetime of memories as we pass through important agricultural areas and wind our way up through bamboo rhododendron forests and enter the enormous cleft which allows passage to the Annapurna Sanctuary proper. We will spend a few days establishing a high camp and then climb moderate snowslopes to reach a steeper climb to gain the broad summit ridge. The final stretch follows a knife edge to the top and from here we will have a 360° view that few have seen.

For anyone considering a run up Ama Dablam but without enough alpine climbing or high altitude experience, this would be an outstanding preparation!

Las Lenas Ski Tours

Never before have skiers or snow boarders been able to access such terrific value powder and party options at South America's premier resort. Based on a double or triple share studio style accommodation in a hotel just 16kms from the ski-field, members enjoy all the privileges of our normal tour program while saving substantial amounts for not using the Lenas based accommodations. Daily private bus transfers are included in the price, and if you want to party hard into the wee hours of the morning in one of Lenas' legendary nightclubs, our tour managers are always available to get you home before sunrise with the use of our private vehicles.