Spantik 2008 Expedition Dispatches

Overview

click to see the expedition post card This August we have a small team, led by Chris Szymiec , headed for Spantik and look forward to a great climb. Our members come from all over the globe including the Poland, Australia, Pakistan and UK. Members of our team have travelled and climbed all over the world but for most this will be a first visit to Pakistan. It will surely be an enlightening experience culturally, physically and visually. We hope you enjoy following the expedition!

During the expedtiion there will a lot of great trainings and review for the members including crevasse rescue, fixed rope movement, roped-team movement and Wilderness First Aid. We intend to be a safe-conscious and self-sufficient team by the time we make our summit attempt.

We would like to thank Eureka and Thai Airways especially for their support and generosity. They are two classy companies to deal with!

If you would like to receive expedition updates please send a note to stu@fieldtouring.com with the subject line Spantik Dispatches.

see the expedition post card
LATEST NEWS | CLIMBING TEAM | SPONSORS | DISPATCHES | SPANTIK 2008 INFO PAGE

Recent news

August 24 Safely back in BC!
August 22 Back in C2 and summit bid over
August 21 In C3 and summit attempt tommorrow
August 18 In C2 and summit push is on!
August 12 C1 Established and off for C2!
August 8 BC Reached!
August 7 Team in view of Spantik!
August 5 Team off to Arandu
August 1 Trip under way!

CLIMBING TEAM | SPONSORS | DISPATCHES | SPANTIK 2008 INFORMATION PAGE

Chris Szymiec , (Canada) Leader

Living full time in the Canadian Rockies Chris's typical weekends include quick trips up 50-70° snow and ice climbs and checking out the insides of crevasses! Originally from the Alberta, Canada, Chris learned much of his skill in the maritimes with ocean waves splashing at his feet while climbing fleeting ice flows. Not much fear here!

Chris has led for FTA on our trips to Gasherbrum II, Spantik, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Everest BC trek and is roundly held as one of our most thoughtful and dedicated guides. Chris is a qualified Wilderness First Responder has just completed his EMT certification.

Ian Hibbert, (Australia) Climber

Usman Khan , (Irish and Paksistan) Climber

Paul Wilms ( Belgium ), Climber

Lukasz mazur (Poland), Climber

Taqui Mohammed , (Pakistan ) High Altitude Porter

Taqui has been working trips for FTA for many years and is one of our most respected and talented high altitude porters. His trips working as a high altitude porter with FTA include Spantik, Broad Peak (4 times!), one to K2, two to G2 and guiding roles on numerous treks to Snowlake and K2 basecamps.

DISPATCHES

Quick Links August 1 5 7 8 12 18 21 22 24

August 24, 2008 - Safely back in BC

from Chris in BC

Everyone is safe and sound at Spantik base camp.

We had an excellent walk down from camp 2 yesterday and despite not reaching the summit, we all feel we had a successful expedition.

Everyone is safe, we have all of our fingers & toes and we are all great friends. The whole team put in an excellent effort and if the weather would have been more stable, I have no doubt everyone would have reached the top.

Tomorrow morning we leave base camp for Skardu then on to Islamabad for our international flights. Ian and I are flying to Kathmandu for the next big adventure. Ian to Cho Oyu with Stu Remensnyder and myself to the Annapurna range with Sean James. Keep checking back for more updates resuming the 1st week of September.

Have fun, climb hard, come home!
Chris from Spantik base camp.
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Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches <http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2008/08/fta-team-back-at-base-camp.html> at 8/24/2008 05:17:00 AM

August 22, 2008 - In C2, summit attempt over and headed down

from Chris in C2

Just a quick update. It snowed 35cm last night at camp 3.

The wind was blowing a gale and despite our desire to finish off this big climb, there was no way we could possibly go anywhere but down. We were the only ones left on the mountain and the descent today was epic for some. Everyone is safe and sound at camp 2.

We will move down base camp tomorrow morning and sadly, conclude the climbing portion of this expedition. Like I always say, the mountain will always be there.

Chris from Spantik camp 2
-- Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches
at 8/22/2008 11:45:00 AM

August 21, 2008 - In C3 and waiting out the snow!

from Chris in C3

We all arrived in camp 3 yesterday after a grueling climb up from camp 2. The early morning snow conditions were excellent but as the day progressed and the slopes steepend, hot temperatures made the climbing very taxing.

After our arrival at camp 3, Ian, Paul, Lukasz & myself made the decision to wait a day before attempting the summit. There are about 30 climbers here right now and they all made an attempt for the summit at 3 am this morning. Among them was Michael and Taqui from the FTA team. The whole group turned back at 6600m in thick fog and deep snow. It's snowing right now with zero visibility.

If the sun comes out this afternoon and we get a good freeze this evening... And if the weather forecast is wrong we will make another attempt at 12 midnight.

All of the other expeditions have left camp 3 and are currently returning to base camp. It's just us at 6300m, 2 tents, 6 guys and 1/2 days food. Stay tuned.

Chris from Spantik camp 3, 6300 m --

Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 8/21/2008 05:48:00 AM

FTA members enjoying Camp 3 in a spectacular spot! Image by Veronika Bartova from our 2006 trip.

August 18, 2008 - C2 established and summit push ahead!

from Chris in C2

We've arrived at camp 2 and all is well.

The weather has been very bad as of late and we are doing our best to stay positive and healthy. There is supposed to be a window of clear weather starting today, but alas, it's snowing like mad in the middle of August. This morning Me, Taqui, Ian, Paul, Michael & Luksaz had a late start from camp 1 and headed up in great weather. The route was covered with about 15cm of fresh snow and I had the privilege of breaking trail up the wonderful ridge, jumping crevaces and kicking steps through amazing terrain. What a day at the office!

Yesterday we had to bid farewell to Dr Usman. His injured knee [from years before] was just too much of a burden to him and he decided to leave the expedition. It was an emotional time as we all left him in base camp. The determination he showed getting to nearly camp 2 was an inspiration to us all. We already miss him.

Tomorrow the team will rest at camp 2 and myself and Jonas from the Spanish group will finish fixing the route up to 6400m, just below camp 3. On the 20th, if the weather permits, we all move up and go for the summit the next day.

Chris from Spantik camp 2, 5300 meters.

-- Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 8/18/2008 05:10:00 PM

Spantik's glorious C2 from our 2007 expedition copyright Chris Szymiec/Field Touring Alpine

August 12, 2008 - C1 established and off to C2!

from Chris in C1

Everyone on the FTA team has moved up to camp one. The climb from base camp up to here is a moderate scramble of about 800 vertical meters through scree, shale, talus and a few steep rock sections. Nothing technical, just good fun in an amazing place.

We are surrounded by glaciers and 6-7000m peaks. I forgot how jaw dropping this place really is. We are all in awe, perched on this classic ridge that drops at least 1000m to the rivers of flowing ice below.

It's great to finally be climbing, and also finally away from the insomniac rooster that has been waking us up for the last 3 days. We figure someone brought him over here from America and his time zones are out or he is suffering from some avian altitude sickness. He crows at the strangest of times Poor guy...
Anyway, tomorrow the 14th we will climb up to camp 2 at about 5500m, drop some supplies, and return to camp 1 before making the move to camp 2 the following morning.

4 am, crampons on, roped up, we crunch off into mist up the snowy ridge!

Living the dream,

Chris from Spantik camp 1
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Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches <http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2008/08/weve-moved-to-camp-1-5000m.html> at 8/12/2008 06:59:00 PM

Eureka tents at C1 with Spantik's main ridge beyond. Image by Sean James from FTA Spantik 2006

August 8, 2008 - Spantik BC reached!

from Chris in Spantik BC

Great news! The FTA 2008 Spantik team has all reached base camp at 4230M. Everyone is feeling great and we have already become great friends. We're having some very interesting conversations and heated debates on every imaginable topic.

Luksaz, Usman, Ian, Myself & Paul arrived yesterday, the 8th and Michael rocked up this morning (he trekked in a day behind us due to a little GI trouble). We are all healthy and preparations for the 7027M climb have begun.

Tomorrow we will do the usual gear checks, food sorting, packing and a little crevasse rescue training. The next day we plan to establish camp 1 at about 5150m and come back down to base that same day. After that, no one can say for sure. I promise to keep you posted though.

There are about 6 other expeditions on the mountain so tomorrow afternoon the expedition leaders will meet to discuss how to make the situation work for everyone. It's crowded at BC but it's a big hill.

Peace, love & happiness

Chris at Spantik BC
Photo:7027M Spantik as seen on day 2 of 3 on the trek in - copyright Chris Szymiec / Field Touring Alpine

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Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 8/08/2008 11:22:00 PM

August 7, 2008 - Trip under way!

from Stu in US Office

I received a short note from chris this morning and it sounds like everything is on schedule as the are already in the small village of Manfikura and expect to be in BC on the 8th.

Michael has been having some GI challenges and is taking an extra day in Arandu to recuperate. He is accompanied by our trekking guide Fida and hopes to come in to BC one day late with another ATP group arriving on the 9th.

More news in the next 48 hours!

The amazing ridge of 7027m high Spantik! Image by Sean James from our 2006 expedition.

August 5, 2008 - Team off for Arandu

from Stu in the US Office

I had a nice phone call from Chris in Skardu and the team is all assembled and gear ready and they are off in a few hours for Arandu and the beginning of the 3-4 day trek to BC. We expect a full disptach from BC when they are set up and just quick updates along the way before then.

August 1, 2008 - Trip under way!

from chris in Islamabad on the 31st

As one adventure ends another begins. The entire team from Gasherbrum 2 2008 has departed Islamabad and now, the Spantik members are slowly arriving.

This afternoon I have an appointment at the Alpine Club of Pakistan to finalize permit details, drink tea and have yet another briefing for the wonderful Spantik, 7027 meters of Karakorum goodness.

I am really looking forward to climbing Spantik again. This time however, I have a slightly different plan for the mountain. Instead of using the usual lift line of fixed ropes, I am going to lead the team up the peak in true alpine style. This approach is a much better way for the members to get the feeling that they are actually climbing the mountain. Instead of fixing ropes on the steeper sections, we will climb together as a rope team using running belays and our own ice screws, pickets and anchors to scale this excellent route from the ground up.

The plan is to establish camp one and descend to base camp for rest and to load up for our big push up the hill. I suppose some may not consider this alpine style in the truest sense, perhaps maybe more of a capsule style but from camp one we will carry all of our equipment, food and fuel up to camp three where our summit push will begin.

Being the Karakorum, the weather might have a different plan for us but enshallah (if Allah permits) we will climb the peak from bottom to top without the use of any fixed lines or previously stocked camps.

Wish us luck! We depart Islamabad for Skardu on August 3rd and begin the approach to the mountain the day after that.

Cheers from Islamabad

Chris
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 7/31/2008 10:15:00 PM

Photo: Gasherbrum 2 2008 team enjoying a feast at our good friend and High Altitude Porter Taqui Mohammed’s home in Hushe before the drive to Skardu.

Images below are all from the 2006 and 2007 expeditions...after the team returns at the end of august we'll put up the new ones!

Returning from a summit bid and headed towards comfort of C3 tents! By Baz Jones from FTA 2006 expedition.

Eureka tents holding steady high on Spantik in 2006
Image by Veronika Bartova

Climbing high on Spantik in 2006
Image by Sean James

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