Gasherbrum II 2008 Expedition Dispatches

BACKGROUND

About FTA and GII

This will be our third trip to G2 and led by Chris Szymiec who will be supported by our experienced high altitude porter and cook staff many of who have previously been with us previous trips to Spantik, G2, Broad Peak and K2.

We welcome you to follow our 2008 team as they make their way through the Karakoram valleys and glaciers to reach base camp and then tackle the 8000m peak.

If you or someone you know would like to be added to out list of people receiving copies of dispatches please send and email to “stu@fieldtouring.com”

July 31 All quiet in Islamabad
July 22- Headed out to Hushe!
July 18 - Attempt ends with stormy weather - all safe in C2 and headed to BC
July 17 - Second attempt on for JR, Francois, Asgar and Nacho
July 14 - In C2 after aborting summit attempt
July 13 - In C3 at 7000m and summit push aheadl
July 12 - In C2 still as a snowstorm stalls the push
July 9 - Summit push is on!
July 7- Back at BC after establishing C2 at 6500m!
July 1 - Headed up in the morning
June 28 -One night at C2 but snowbound in BC
June 25 - C1 Established!
June 22 - All is well in Base Camp
June 19 - Concordia Reached....K2 in view!
June 14 - Team almost to Askole
June 13 - Team ready to leave for Askole
June 11 - Skardu by Flight!
June 8 - All well in Islamabad

CLIMBING TEAM | TREKKING TEAM | SPONSORS | DISPATCHES | GASHERBRUM II 2009 INFORMATION PAGE

Chris Szymiec (Canada), Leader

Living full time in the Canadian Rockies Chris's typical weekends include quick trips up 50-70° snow and ice climbs and checking out the insides of crevasses! Originally from the Alberta, Canada, Chris learned much of his skill in the maritimes with ocean waves splashing at his feet while climbing fleeting ice flows. Not much fear here!

Chris has led for FTA on our trips to Spantik, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Everest BC trek and is roundly held as one of our most thoughtful and dedicated guides. Chris is a qualified Wilderness First Responder has just completed his EMT certification.

For more about Chris and our other guides see our staff page.

Jean-René Boidron (France)

Living in Paris, Jean-René, 43, is running and cycling 3 to 4 times a week to keep his heart rate high and be in good shape for Gasherbrum II!

Previously Jean-René has summited such peaks as Cotopaxi (1990), Kilimanjaro (2005) and Lenin Peak (2006) at 7.135m. When time allows, he is visiting the Alps; he has climbed the Mont Blanc (2004), Matterhorn via the lion ridge (2005), crossing of La Meije (2006), crossing of the Aiguilles Dorées (2007). He also trekked and climbed in Japan (Mount Fuji), Peru (Inca trail), Bolivia, Nepal (Annapurna trail), Iceland (Vatnajökull) and
Indian Kashmir (unknown peak!).

Jean-René just sold the IT company he had created 10 years ago. Before he starts a new company again, it is the right time for him to make a 8.000er attempt. He is married and has two 14 and 11 year-old sons.

He looks forward to meeting everybody on June 10 in Islamabad.

François Neukirch (France)

Living in Paris, François, 44, looks forward to attempting his first 8,000er.

François is keen on the Alps, doing high-altitude ski touring, ski running, mountaineering and rock climbing. He has been climbing for the last 20 years several summits such as crossing of Les Ecrins (2003), Mont Blanc (2004), Matterhorn via the lion ridge (2005), crossing of La Meije (2006), crossing of the Aiguilles Dorées (2007). He also climbed Kilimanjaro (2005), rock climbed in southern Algeria, and did ski touring in Norway and Mongolia.
After having sold his IT company two years ago, François is now running a CRM services company. He is married and has a 15 year-old daughter and a 12-year old son.

He looks forward to meeting everybody on June 10 in Islamabad.

Mark Kosmider (Australia)

Mark Kosmider is 40 year old father of 10 month old Tom. Originally born in Jersey (Channel Islands), he now resides in Perth Western Australia. He has been putting off climbs for the past 5-years for various reasons, but is looking forward to being in the hills again as part of this team.

Mark is a director of his own Risk management company www.bushellbuckley.com.au and enjoys a challenge.

Andy Clark (UK)

Andy is a geologist working in the Norwegian oil fields. His quest to escape being contacted by 'the office' has lead him to many of the remote, high altitude areas of Argentina, Chile and Peru. He has also trekked and climbed in Nepal, Ladakh and the Altai region of Mongolia. In 2007 he even resorted to cruising the Southern Ocean and Antarctic peninsula in a 56ft yacht.

Fred Treur (Netherlands)

Being from the Netherlands Fred been climbing in the Alps since 2001. He has climbed several 4000-ers in the Alps such as Finsteraarhorn, Zumsteinspitze, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Monch, Polux, Castor, Nadelhorn etc.

He has high altitude experience on trekkings in the Himalaya up to 5500 meter. He has also trekked to Annapurna, Lantang Helambu, Everest Kala Patar and Gokyo Ri in Nepal and Everest Base Camp in Tibet. He climbed Kilimanjaro (5900 m.) and El Misti (5800 m.) in Peru and did the Inca Trail.

Surech Kuppusamy (Malaysia)

Surech joins our expedition as an FTA alum from Ama Dablam 2006 and Cho Oyu 2007 and has been trekking and climbing in the himalayas for 7 years.
He has visited the Indian Himalayas to formally train on all aspects of mountaineering including high altitude search and rescue. Each of their training lasts 1 month on average and are conducted in Indian Himalayas. Surech is involved actively in long distance and mountain running and climbs to 6B/6B+ (french) difficulty on rock.

Nacho Lucero (Argentina), BC services

Nacho is from Mendoza in Argentina and is a high altitude guide on Aconcagua. Having inherited his love of mountains from his grandfather who was an amateur mountaineer, he has wanted to be a mountaineer since he was five years old. He has been working on Aconcagua for 16 years, and has been to the top 33 times. This year he led 7 expeditions, 5 of which reached the summit. In his spare time he likes to climb more mountains! He has climbed most of the mountains there are to climb in South America, and was the first person to snowboard back down the 6000m Plata in Argentina. Last year, he went to Europe for the first time and climbed Mont Blanc and in the Pyrenees. This is his first trip to climb in Asia, and he hopes that the ascent will be easier than obtaining his visa! When he is not climbing mountains, he likes to ski down them, mountain bike on them, and enjoy the view of the foothills of the Andes while barbecuing the best steaks in the world at his house in Mendoza.

TREKKING TEAM

Clare Gillespie (UK)

Clare's many travels have taken her from Iceland to the high Andes, down through the wilds of Patagonia to Ushuaia and across the Southern Ocean to the Antarctic Peninsula. In Asia she has summited Mera and Stok Kangri and explored the Altai mountains of Mongolia. She has always wanted to drive the Karakorum Highway and hopes she will get the chance now.

DISPATCHES

Quick Links June 8 11 13 14 19 22 25 28 July 1 7 9 11 12 13 14 17 18 22 31

July 31, 2008 - all quiet in Islamabad

from chris in Islamabad

As one adventure ends another begins. The entire team from Gasherbrum 2 2008 has departed Islamabad and now, the Spantik members are slowly arriving.

This afternoon I have an appointment at the Alpine Club of Pakistan to finalize permit details, drink tea and have yet another briefing for the wonderful Spantik, 7027 meters of Karakorum goodness.

I am really looking forward to climbing Spantik again. This time however, I have a slightly different plan for the mountain. Instead of using the usual lift line of fixed ropes, I am going to lead the team up the peak in true alpine style. This approach is a much better way for the members to get the feeling that they are actually climbing the mountain. Instead of fixing ropes on the steeper sections, we will climb together as a rope team using running belays and our own ice screws, pickets and anchors to scale this excellent route from the ground up.

The plan is to establish camp one and descend to base camp for rest and to load up for our big push up the hill. I suppose some may not consider this alpine style in the truest sense, perhaps maybe more of a capsule style but from camp one we will carry all of our equipment, food and fuel up to camp three where our summit push will begin.

Being the Karakorum, the weather might have a different plan for us but enshallah (if Allah permits) we will climb the peak from top to bottom without the use of any fixed lines or previously stocked camps.

Wish us luck! We depart Islamabad for Skardu on August 3rd and begin the approach to the mountain the day after that.

Cheers from Islamabad

Chris
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 7/31/2008 10:15:00 PM

Photo: Gasherbrum 2 2008 team enjoying a feast at our good friend and High Altitude Porter Taqui Mohammed’s home in Hushe before the drive to Skardu.

July 22, 2008 - Over Gondogoro La and headed to Hushe for lunch!

We have had good word from Chris that the remaining team is moving well and were able to get over the Gondogoro pass. As well we have word from Mark that he is safely home in Perth and glad to be done with a long and trying layover in Bankok!

The schedule for the group is looking to have them back in ISB on the evening of the 27th if all goes well. Along the way they will stop at the home of our high altitude porter, Taqui Mohammed, for a feast. Taqui invited our broad peak team in 2003 to his home and it was a singular pleasure to be treated to a beautiful meal and meet his family. I am sure this years team will feel the same.

I have added a picture below of Leila Peak taken during the 2003 Broad Peak expedition when we crossed over Gondogoro La. Our K2 BC treks exit this way if the conditions permit and it is an amazing thing to smell the pungent earth and flowers and sage brush after so many weeks either without much smell on snow or rock or with too much when your tent mate takes off his boots!

More news from Chris likely on the 25th from skardu where he will take awell needed rest before the start of the Spantik expedition!

Til then,
stu

Here is the note from chris at the base of Gondogoro la working on limited battery power!

Went over gondogoro pass this morning.
23 Tomorrow to shaishcho
24 hushe to taquis for lunch then jeeps to skardu
25 day in skardu 26 team on kkh to chillas
27 team chillas to isb

Need sun, batteries dead...

peace out

chris

Leila Peak after crossing the gondogor La. Image by Stu Remensnyder

July 18, 2008 - Second Summit over and all members okay in C2

ALL FTA MEMBERS ARE OK!

First thing this morning I awoke to a frantic display of base camp mayhem. People running around. Word of frozen climbers, huge storms and no communication were abuzz.

As we prepared med. kits, oxygen bottles & stretchers, A small team of international climbers, including myself were trying to piece together a rescue plan for an unknown number of victims stranded somewhere between 7300m and 8000m. In the next few moments, some more distilled news started to filter down from the high camps. There were two victims, one with frozen feet and one with frozen hands. Also, news of an Argentinean climber that was in trouble. My god, Nacho. My dear friend and one of the coolest guys I've met. No word from JR & Francois or our dedicated high altitude porter Asgar either.

Everything was set for our big rescue when JR's voice crackled over the radio. "Um, Chris, we had a big surprise last night, a big storm. We are finished, nearly at camp 2." I immediately asked about the status of Nacho and the rest of the team. "Nacho has very cold feet but they do not seem to be frost bitten, he is ok, everyone is fine and will sleep at camp 2 this evening".

I am so so relieved. Not to be melodramatic but this morning really tore me apart. I know that these things are part of life in the mountains but it is impossible to get used to it. It is the price some of us pay to visit the most amazing places on earth. Some come home, some stay here forever.

Once again, all FTA members are fine and I will make sure everyone makes it safely back to base camp. We will be clearing the hill tomorrow and heading back to Concordia on the 21st of July.

The mountain will always be there

Chris

-- Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches

[note from stu: chris had mentioned in this dispatch on ongoing rescue and possible evac by helicopter. a few hours later he and others from BC had headed up into the icefall to assist and to their suprise and happiness found the reported injured climbers all doing fine and descending on their own power. I have removed the reference to avoid any undue concern by other teams of family at home.]

July 17, 2008 - Second Summit attemp on

From Chris at BC

Well, they're going for it. Francois, JR & Asgar climbed to camp 4 at 7400m today and met up with Nacho. They all plan to head for the summit at 6am tomorrow, July 18th. All is looking well and if the weather holds for another 24 hours they should be standing atop Gasherbrum 2 8035m sometime tomorrow afternoon.
There is a lot of snow up high and the winds are blowing but they are all determined.
Everyone at baseamp in cheering them on and we are anxiously awaiting the next radio contact.
GO FOR IT GUYS!
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches

July 14, 2008 - Summit attempt aborted, safely back to C2

From Chris at C2

I had to make the really tough decision to call off pretty much our only summit chance last night at 10:30 pm. 10 cm of snow had fallen and the winds had started to blow. I went around to the team members' tents and broke the news. Surprisingly, everyone supported my decision to see what the morning would bring. Well, 50 cm of snow, a total white out and blow-you-over winds. The north face team turned back at 7400m due to avy danger. Their bid to ski from the summit of Gasherbrum 2 is pretty much off. Its been great climbing with such a great group of people and we look forward to a rockin' dance party back at base camp. I digress...
At about 10am this morning I had to make another tough call. Wait out the a storm at 7000m, that arrived early and is supposed to last 5 days or get off the mountain before the team gets trapped and can't descend the extremely avalanche prone slopes. (3 additional days of sun are needed to help consolidate the snow and make it relatively safe) I must say I'm not the happiest of campers right now but I stand by my decision.

Here we all sit safe and sound at camp 2. Everyone but Jean-Rene and Francois will descend to base camp tomorrow morning. The two French climbers feel differently about the weather and route conditions and along with Asgar, may make another attempt from camp 2. Nacho remained at camp 3 and may also descend tomorrow or head up to camp 4, weather permitting.

It saddens me, and all of the members to be going down after working so hard to to get so close to our goal. In the end however, it is always safety first and my first responsibility it to bring everyone home.
Chris from G2 camp 2.
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Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches <http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2008/07/summit-aborted-50cm-snow-high-winds.html> at 7/14/2008 12:43:00 AM

July 13, 2008 - In C3 and headed up!

From Chris at C3, 7000m

After an amazing climb up to camp 3 at 7000m, the team is all set to push for the summit this evening.
We left camp 2 at 7am and arrived at 3 between 3-4.5 hours later. The climb up the icy face was pretty much 50° the whole way; never letting up for a second. Taqui arrived first, then me, followed closely by Andy. JR & Francis rolled in about an hour later with Suresh & Fred 30 minutes after that. Nacho shortly after with his huge pack.
The going was pretty slow but we are all feeling like we can make a good shot at the summit this evening. This is pretty much our go/no go day. After so much preparation and hard work, our window comes down to just one day. Not much fun waiting at 7000 meters but the views are so amazing we can't help but be excited!
Chris at Gasherbrum 2, camp 3.
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Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches <http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2008/07/leaving-at-11pm-for-top.html> at 7/13/2008 05:28:00 AM

July 12, 2008 - In C2 still as snowstrm stalls the push

From Chris at C2

As I write this post, the sun is baking us at camp 2. This morning however, a small blizzard halted all progress. The slopes above camp 2 are prone to avalanche so I made the call to stay put and see what happens. Luckily, the storm was small with only about 5cm of snow accumulation and the sun was out at 9am helping everything settle down. We witnessed a couple of small avalanches just to the right of the climbing route which helped make the decision feel all the better.

Hopefully this evening we get a good freeze and we set off tomorrow at 5am for camp 3. Our weather forecast shows great weather for the next 3 days.

This is a really big mountain and it is proving to be quite the challenge to get up!

Stay tuned Chris at G2 camp 2

-- Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 7/12/2008

July 11, 2008 - In C2 already....off for C3 in the morning!

From Chris at C2

Approaching C2. Image by Chris Szymiec

The team is all set to move up to just under 7000m in the morning! Everyone is feeling fine, considering, and we plan to leave at about 5am.

The majority of the route up to camp 3 is fixed and we expect good snow conditions and fine travel up the 30-50° slopes. We will see how everyone is feeling at camp 3 and if everything is good to go, we will move up to camp 4 at 7400m and get ready for our summit attempt.

Nacho is here at camp 2 and he is also planning on moving up to 3 in the morning.

I will try my best to write tomorrow from camp 3.

Stay tuned!

Chris from Gasherbrum 2 camp 2, 6500m

July 9, 2008 - Headed up and hoping to top out on the 14th!

From Stu in the US office

I received an exciting dispatch from Chris (see below) that they are off on the 10th and we wish them a safe passage to the top and back over the next week. Weather reports look to be improving for the summit days but they may have to make do with a few windy days on the way up and watch fingers and toes carefully during this time. The good thing is the reports do not suggest any new snowfall which will hopefully further stablilize the snow slopes. The past few days have seen some summits so we know the route will go if the conditions of the members and mountain permit!

We had a nice note from Mark from BC and he will be coming out to Skardu over the next few days along with an Amical team so it is nice that he will have good company on the walk! He is in good spirits and feeling well but disappointed to have not been acclimatizing well up high.

We'll keep you posted as we get news from chris...likely in short phone messages every few days!

cheers,

stu

From Chris in G2 BC, 7/9/2008

Well, it seems that weather, health and route conditions have all come together in our favour - tomorrow morning at 4am the summit push for Gasherbrum II begins!

If all goes according to plans on July 10 we will navigate the ever changing icefall up to camp 1 and sleep there for the night. On July 11 we'll head up the Banana Ridge to camp 2 and have some additional height gain with a push up to camp 3 later in the day. July 12 we'll move up to just under 7000 meters and sleep at camp 3. On July 13 we go up to camp 4 at 7400 meters, brew up and try to get a little sleep before leaving for the summit on July 14th at am.

The trip to the summit should take us about 12 hours and hopefully less than that to descend back to camp 3. At least an 18 hour day above 7000 meters! On summit day, Taqui will be in the lead with Asgar sweeping team members from the rear. I will be floating between lead and tail and keeping tabs on everything as we go up and above 8000 meters.

I will do my best to send some images from up high in the days to come.

These next few days are the culmination of months of preparation. We have to do it right and do it smart. Safety, fun then summit; in that order.

Climb on!

Chris from G2 base camp.
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches
July 7 , 2008 - Back at BC after a great trip to C2 and 6700m!

From Chris in G2 BC, 7/7/2008

Everyone is back at base camp after our small acclimatization sortie up to 6700 meters. The climb from camp 1 up to camp 2 is really interesting. It starts with a 50° snow slope for about 60M, then a little traverse around a hanging glacier. About 125 vertical meters of rambling ice and snow later, the classic Banana Ridge starts. About 15 pitches of 55° to 75° ice/snow in a wonderful position. For anyone who's been to Ama Dablam, this is just like camp 3 to summit! Unreal!!!

Don't be fooled though, the top of the ridge isn't camp 2. Yet another false summit awaits and another grueling 75 vertical meter slog brings you right into camp 2 at 6500m. A tip for future G2 & G1 climbers: leave early and arrive at all camps before the sun hits, wear white clothing and bring a big hat or umbrella. Trust me.....

Sadly, Mark has made the decision not to continue up the mountain. He has made this choice on his own due to a number of factors and I must say that I have a deep respect for his wisdom and lack of ego. After so much preperation and sacrifice, Mark has realized that his priorities don't lie at the top of an 8000m mountain. We all praise him for that.

The rest of the team is currently recharging and gearing up for the big push. Everyone is in excellent health and all that we need now is a 4-5 day window of good weather. Naucho is powering up the hill and has established his camp 2 right next to ours. He is currently resting at base with the rest of us.
We have been getting mixed weather data but in general the trend is leaning towards -20°c and high winds at 7000 meters by Thursday or Friday. This just happens to be the approximate height of our camp 3 and with conditions like that, no one goes anywhere, very dangerous indeed.

Everyone is mindful of the realities of climbing the highest mountains on earth. Gasherbrum 2 will grant us permission to summit when she is ready. Until then we will wait and enjoy good times and great friends at base camp.

Peace out
Chris
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches
July 1, 2008 - Off to C1 in the morning!

From Chris in G2 BC, 7/1/2008

Everyone on the Field Touring Alpine G2 team is packed and ready to move tomorrow morning at 3:30am. That is if the weather holds. We are all rested and anxious to establish camp 2 at 6400m on the Banana Ridge of Gasherbrum 2 !
Chris
June 28, 2008 - One night at C2 but snowbound in BC

From Chris in G2 BC, 6/28/2008

The majority of the teams at camp 1 have returned to base camp today. The weather forecast calls for snow for at least the next three days. Although the route up the Banana Ridge to camp 2 is fixed, the heavy snow and warm temps are forcing many climbers down. We will wait for safer conditions before establishing our camp 2. That said, the route up to camp 2 looks Sweet, I can't wait to get up there!

We have been receiving custom weather forecast from Michelle Dibona back in France. Each and every one has been absolutely correct. Thank Michelle, you are a greatly valued member of our team.

We made a large load carry up to camp 1 yesterday and spent the night shaking off the tents and hoping for a clear morning. 30 cm of snow and counting greeted us so myself, Andy, Fred, JR, Francois, Surech, Taqui & Asgar left our camp 2 gear stashed and descended to base camp in just over 3 hours. Mark & Nacho stayed at base for some additional rest.

We will all wait out the storm and get ready for our next push up the hill.

Stay tuned...
Chris
-- Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches
June 25, 2008 - C1 Established, the only problem: there is no shade!

From Chris in G2 BC, 6/25/2008 9:43 local time

At 4am on June 26, the 2 HAPs Taqui & Asgar, the yellow rope team : Chris, Andy, JR, & Francois, the red rope, Nacho, Mark, Fred & Surech all set out into the icefall for our first push to camp 1 on Gasherbrum 2.

C1 on a blistering hot day!. Image by Chris Szymiec In the darkness and cold of the early morning, the ice fall proved to be quite straight forward with only a couple of off vertical sections. No fixed ropes were needed and the travel onto the upper plateau at the base of the Gasherbrum amphitheater was excellent. That is until the sun came out. Despite the most amazing of scenery, the temps quickly went from 5°c to 30°c, and this was at 7am! Nothing more than a massive solar oven walled with some of the tallest peaks on earth.

Taqui & Asgar reached Camp 1 about 2 hours before me and the yellow rope team. We dropped our loads and began to descend at about noon. The red rope had decided to stop about 200 vertical meters below and were resting while Naucho was setting an advanced basecamp and depositing his 25kg load! Crazy guy.

Andy, JR & Francois took off back to basecamp and I waited around and descend with the red team. We all stumbled into base at about 5pm. The heat was nuclear and the icefall was much more challenging with the added dimensions of slushy ice and rushing torrents of melt water.

Today we rest and prepare to set out at 2am tomorrow for our first sleep at camp 1. The weather is amazing so we may decide to spend a couple nights up high and try to establish camp 2 before coming all of the way down to base camp to recover.

All is well and the base camp staff have really gone out of their way to make this trip a great experience. The food is amazing and after nearly 2 weeks, we haven't had the same meal twice!
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 6/25/2008 09:43:00 PM

June 22, 2008 - Made it to BC!

From Chris in G2 BC, 6/22/2008

After one of the most stunning treks in the world, and nearly 90km as the crow flies, the 2008 Gasherbrum 2 team has arrived at our 5200M base camp.

Everyone is in great health thanks to a good acclimatization schedule on the way in and excellent food prepared by Little Karim and the rest of the cook staff. The weather has been a bit unsettled in the afternoons with scattered flurries. The mornings however offer the most stunning of views.

Clare is celebrating her birthday today so we have our cook staff baking her a cake and serving a feast of mammoth proportions. We really have it good up here. Everyone is settled into their own comfy tent and the unpacking for the next 26 days has begun. Its a gear junkies paradise up here.

After arriving today I ran out 250 meters of rope up and over some glacial formations for a skills review and gear testing session tomorrow in the AM We will rest in the afternoon and enshalla, head up to camp 1 at about 5800M the following day. We will then return to base camp for a rest. The base ice fall is very heavily crevased this year but it all looks very manageable, and interesting!

The team is strong and we are all stoked to get on the mountain.

Climb on!

Chris

June 19, 2008 - Team ready to leave for Askole!

From Chris in Concordia, 6/19/2009, 07:09:00 PM local time

Surech, Mark, François & Jene-René looking at the
summit of K2 from Concordia. Image by Chris Szymiec The long trek up the Baltoro Glacier is nearly behind us. The whole team is feelling great and we are now looking forward to a rest day at 4600m at Concordia.

The views are amazing - K2, Broad Peak, Chogolisa, Gasherbrum 4. We are all awe struck by the stunning beauty of this place.

Despite a possible porter revolt, we will stay here to acclimitze for a full day. Then it's a long days walk to our new home for the next month, Gasherbrum 2 base camp. We will be sending our climbing gear up to base camp tomorrow with the porters who have threatened to strike and despite their attempts at bribery, we will stay here to ensure we all aren't wiped out by the time we reach the start of the climb. Just part of the game up here.

I knew things were going too smoothly!

Chris

June 14, 2008 - Team nearing Askole!

From Chris in Togol, 6/14/2008 05:12:00 PM

All of the team has reached a spot about one hour from Askole by foot. Due to a number of reasons, including a road blockage, a driver revolt and another 2 washed out roads, we are now camped in Thogol, a village with many curious children. In fact, as I write this dispatch, I am surrounded by at least 10 little kids all trying to read these words aloud. Its so cute as well amazing how well they can read English.

Anyway's I need to get back to work. All is well. Its always an adventure in the Karakorum. Everyone sends their love back home.

Chris

June 13, 2008 - Team ready to leave for Askole!

From Stu in the USA office (June 13, 2pm gmt 5)

Great news from the home office….the team is ready to leave for Askole at 6am and to begin the expedition in earnest. All last minute shopping and packing is done, members have written final emails to family and friends and now they can relax and get on with the real business at hand…a nice long walk to the bottom of a huge hill and then a month to try to find their way safely to the top and back down!

Chris has been working very hard since he arrived in Islamabad on the 7th to have all manner of climbing and cooking gear, satellite communications, medical kit items and a myriad of little things ready for this moment. He deserves a good night sleep before boarding the 4x4’s for the rough ride to Askole. Our members gathered over several days in Islamabad and were able to make the amazing flight to Skardu without exception and avoid the awesome but arduous road trip up the Karakoram Highway. Views of Nanga Parbat have most of them already secretly scheming for their next trips!

Skardu has proven to be a quiet and relaxing place as usual and the quality of the gear seems pretty good in town this year as Chris found out when he needed to replace some key climbing equipment lost in the PIA Karachi Cargo area for nearly 2 weeks. With question that it would ever be found growing Chris scoured Skardu for crampons and boots and struck gold with a pair that he says are the equal or superior to the pair he planned to use in the first place! All other FTA and member gear arrived without any drama and on time and we are grateful to our ground agent ATP for doing a great job for us.

Supporting Chris will be our two high altitude porters, Taqui and Ashgar , and our head cook, Karim, all of who all worked with Chris last year on FTA's successful Spantik trip. Such familiarity will help to make the trip run smoothly and we look forward to hearing good reports of the food and staff along the way. They will start out immediately with a fun hurdle which is that there is a reported large landslide between Skardu and Askole which the will have to cross on foot, ferrying the loads, to reach trapped vehicles on the other side. Overall we are sure the trip to Askole will be the significant adventure it always is with narrow steep roads, river crossing and bone jarring bounces. A true once (usually twice!) in a lifetime experience. On a side note I will say I am glad they did not try to go to Askole today, Friday the 13th, but spent the day safely at lake just outside of town!

We’ll have more news every 3-4 days during the expedition and hope you all enjoy following our team’s progress!

If you or someone you know would like to be added to out list of people receiving copies of dispatches please send and email to “stu@fieldtouring.com”

All manner of things available in Skardu and a rare place where your transpiortation needs are so widely met by a single shop. Whether on foot or in a car you can be up and running in no time! by Stu Remensnyder/FTA

June 11, 2008 - Team in Skardu!

From Chris in Skardu, 6/11/2008 03:34:00 AM

Just a quick note from the lovely Indus Valley and the town of Skardu.

The majority of the team arrived via air this morning on what we all agreed was the most amazing flight of our lives. We has the most stunning of views of Nanga Parbat, Masherbrum and hundreds of the worlds highest peaks. We navigated through high passes with the summits brushing our wings. We all found it strange when the pilot announced "Ladies and gentleman, welcome to Skardu" before we had even landed. We took this as a sign that the danger had passed and the rest was smooth sailing. Unreal, gotta love Pakistan!!!

Mark arrives in Islamabad this evening and will be joining us on the 12th, inshalla (Urdu for: If God permits). The rest of the team members will be relaxing on my orders and getting ready for the very tough trek ahead. Tomorrow i sort gear and drink three cups of tea with my old friends Taqui & Ashgar. Life is good and everyone is so glad to be in such a lovely place.

On a personal note:

Lindsay-Bea I (Chris) miss' you oh so much.

Fred says: "Mary, your would love the fabrics over here" and I'm sure everyone else is sending their love and best wishes back at the hotel.

Satapara Lake above Skardu by Stu Remensnyder/Field Touring Alpine

June 8, 2008 - All well in Islamabad

From Chris in Islamabad, 6/08/2008 07:09:00 PM

What an amazing place Pakistan is!

Ashraf Aman on K2 in 1977

Despite the searing 40°C temps out yesterday, I managed to take a small taxi to our local expedition support office to meet with its owner Ashraf Aman. This unassuming man in his mid 70s was asleep on the couch when I arrived. He promptly jumped to his feet and gave me a warm greeting and a strong hug. I had met him last year but I had no idea who he actually was. In 1977, with a joint Japanese Pakistani expedition he was the first Pakistani ever to stand atop the worlds 2nd highest peak, the mighty K2, still revered as the world's most dangerous and difficult mountain. In addition to being awarded the Presidential Medal for Performance, he also made the second ascent of this killer mountain since it was first scaled in 1954 by a very skilled Italian team.
I sat awe struck as he told me how easy places like 'house's chimney' is now days, and the rock band before Camp 3. I felt like bowing down in his presence but that would have just been foolish. The bottle neck he said, is the place you DON'T want to fall. Everything else is easy now. "We made the route for the rest of the world" said Mr. Aman. Oh and another thing, he didn't bother using supplementary oxygen on his ascent either. A quick look at the clothing he is wearing is a testament to the true scale of their endeavor.

Well enough about K2, for now we climb G2, slightly smaller, much tamer and a classic stepping stone to the legendary giants like K2. I have met many expeditions here in Islamabad and it seems the flights to Skardu are running. Sadly, i awoke this morning to monsoon rains and a humidity like noting i've experienced. I foresee a 20 hour drive in our near future. Nacho and i have already arrived and in a few short hours, Clare, Andrew, Fred and Surech will arrive and my work will begin. Tomorrow, the 10th of June, Jean Rene and François arrive followed by Mark on the 11th. What ever happens, we will be on the road or flight in the next 48 hours.

I send best wishes and big hugs to all on behalf of myself and all of the Field touring Alpine Gasherbrum 2 2008 expedition.

Wish us luck!

Chris

June 5, 2008 - Preparations in Kathmandu
From Chris in Kathmandu
Everything is all set and ready to go for the Field Touring Alpine Gasherbrum 2 2008 expedition. I fly to Islamabad tomorrow morning where i will commence the task of securing permits, garbage deposits and local transport up the Karakorum Highway to Skardu.

Night Lights in Thamel, Kathmandu by Chris Szymiec The rest of the team will be arriving between the 8th and 11th of June. We plan to fly shortly there after to Skardu (weather permitting) at which time the monumental task of packing for 50 days in the mountains will begin. Will will stay in Skardu for a day or so and then load up our 70s era Toyota Land Cruisers and head into the hills for one of the worlds most revered treks to Gasherbrum 2 base camp.

I will dispatch as much as possible and keep all fans, friends & families up to date on what promises to be a fantastic adventure to the famed Karakorum giant, Gasherbrum 2.
Namaste
Chris

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Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches <http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2008/06/team-reaches-askole-almost.html> at 6/13/2008 05:12:00 PM

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